Keratolytic agents are substances that promote exfoliation or sloughing of skin cells, particularly the dead skin cells found in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. These agents work by breaking down the bonds between skin cells, allowing them to be easily removed from the skin’s surface.
Keratolytic agents can be used to address various skin concerns, such as acne, psoriasis, eczema, keratosis pilaris, and hyperkeratosis. They help to smooth the skin’s texture, unclog pores, and promote cell turnover, leading to a brighter and more even complexion.
There are a number of different types of keratolytic, including:
- Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs): These water-soluble acids, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid, help to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells and promote exfoliation. AHAs are commonly found in facial cleansers, toners, masks, and peels.
- Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs): Salicylic acid is a well-known BHA that is oil-soluble and particularly effective in treating acne-prone and oily skin. It can penetrate deep into the pores, dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells and helping to unclog pores.
- Retinoids: Retinoids, which are derived from vitamin A, can increase cell turnover and promote exfoliation. They are often used to treat acne, fine lines, and hyperpigmentation. Retinoids can be found in prescription-strength products or over-the-counter formulations like retinol.
- Urea: Urea is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that has keratolytic properties. It helps to soften and break down the bonds between dead skin cells, particularly in cases of dry, rough, or thickened skin.
- Enzymes: Enzymatic exfoliants, such as papain (from papaya) or bromelain (from pineapple), work by breaking down proteins in the stratum corneum, promoting gentle exfoliation.
- Retinoids: Retinoids are a type of vitamin A that is often used to treat acne and other skin conditions. Retinoids work by increasing the turnover of skin cells, which helps to remove dead skin cells and reveal the healthy, glowing skin underneath.
Keratolytics essentially refers to a type of exfoliation process that breaks down keratin and removes it from the skin’s surface. The term “keratolytics” encompasses a broad range of products and ingredients that exfoliate the skin in various ways, but they all share one common feature: the breakdown of keratin.