Functional ingredients are the ingredients in cosmetic products that do the “heavy lifting.” They are the ingredients that make the products work, and they are the ingredients that give the products their specific properties.

Functional ingredients offer numerous benefits in cosmetic formulations:

  • Enhanced product performance: Functional ingredients ensure that cosmetic products are easy to apply, spread evenly, and deliver the desired results.
  • Improved user experience: By providing the desired texture, consistency, and stability, functional ingredients enhance the overall user experience, making the product more enjoyable and effective to use.
  • Product safety and longevity: Preservatives and stabilizers help maintain product quality, safety, and shelf life, reducing the risk of contamination and spoilage.
  • Considerations for Beauty Professionals and Estheticians

Functional ingredients can be categorized into several groups based on their primary roles in cosmetic formulations:

  • Emollients: These ingredients help soften and moisturize the skin by forming a protective barrier that reduces water loss. Common emollients include natural oils (e.g., jojoba oil, almond oil) and synthetic esters (e.g., isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate).
  • Emulsifiers: Emulsifiers enable the blending of water and oil phases in cosmetic products, creating a stable emulsion. Examples include glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, and polysorbate 20.
  • Thickeners: Thickeners help to adjust the viscosity and consistency of cosmetic products, making them more spreadable and easier to apply. Common thickeners include carbomer, xanthan gum, and hydroxyethylcellulose.
  • Humectants: Humectants attract and retain moisture in the skin, providing hydration and promoting a plump, healthy appearance. Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and propylene glycol are examples of humectants.
  • Preservatives: Preservatives protect cosmetic products from microbial contamination, extending their shelf life and ensuring safety. Common preservatives include parabens, phenoxyethanol, and sodium benzoate.
  • Stabilizers: Stabilizers help maintain the consistency, texture, and overall quality of cosmetic products over time. Examples include antioxidants like vitamin E and chelating agents like disodium EDTA.

While functional ingredients are generally safe, it’s essential to be aware of potential contraindications and precautions:

  • Allergies and sensitivities: Some clients may have allergies or sensitivities to specific functional ingredients. Always conduct a patch test before using a new product and inquire about any known allergies or sensitivities.
  • Product interactions: Be mindful of potential interactions between different products, as some functional ingredients may not be compatible with others, leading to reduced efficacy or adverse reactions.
Both functional and performance ingredients can trigger skin irritation and allergies, particularly when there are excessive amounts of fragrances and preservatives. As a skincare professional, it is essential to conduct a patch test on new clients or when using a product for the first time to prevent adverse reactions.